Home-Buying Process

I don’t charge you a dime.

I’m paid by the lender after your loan closes — similar to how a real estate agent is paid by the seller.

My job is to shop the best rates and programs for you, not to push one bank’s agenda. You get options, transparency, and strategy — all without paying me directly.

Nope. A soft credit check is just a quick peek — it doesn’t show up as an inquiry and doesn’t impact your score. It’s like window-shopping for mortgages.

A hard pull (later in the process) is what officially registers on your credit report.

Credit Karma uses a “VantageScore,” while mortgage lenders use “FICO 2, 4, and 5.” Think of them like different grading scales — both measure credit, but the math behind them is different.

That’s why your mortgage score is often lower than what you see on apps. I’ll show you your true mortgage scores during pre-approval so there are no surprises.

Unfortunately, nope — the lender looks at the lower credit score of everyone on the loan and uses the combined income of those same people.

If one partner has strong credit but low income (or vice versa), we’ll run both scenarios:

• Together: Combined income, but the lower credit score sets the pricing.

• Solo: Only one person’s income, but their own credit score applies.

This helps us find the most strategic path — whether that’s applying together, separately, or doing a little credit tune-up first.

Not at all. This is not a commitment — it’s a strategy session.
When we run your numbers, we’re simply gathering info to see what’s possible. You’re not locked into a lender, loan, or property.

Think of it like test-driving a car: we’re just seeing what fits before you ever sign anything.
If you decide to move forward later, you’ll already have the foundation built — and that saves you serious time and stress when the right home pops up.

Because the buyers who start early get the best deals and the least stress.
Starting at least 6 months out gives us time to:

• Fine-tune your credit (and boost your score if needed)

• Build up savings or reserves strategically

• Lock in pre-approval when rates or inventory shift in your favor

• Understand what’s realistic for your budget and goals

Waiting until you’re “ready to buy” often means playing catch-up — and that’s when dream homes get away. Starting early means when you see the one, you’re already positioned to win.

It depends on how you earn income:

• W-2 Employees: Two most recent pay stubs + last two years of W-2s.

• Hourly or Overtime: We’ll average your income over time, so consistent hours matter.

• Self-Employed / 1099: Two years of tax returns, all pages and schedules.

• Active Duty or Retired Military: LES, retirement statement, or VA disability letter.

• Side Hustle Income: Usually needs a two-year history to count.

If you’re unsure — no worries. Once you apply, I’ll send a checklist tailored exactly to your situation.

Not exactly — and I don’t want you getting catfished by clickbait.

Most down payment assistance (DPA) programs are actually second liens on your property — meaning they’re another small loan layered on top of your main mortgage. Some are forgivable over time, and some have to be repaid when you sell or refinance.

Also, the “first-time homebuyer program” isn’t one single loan type — it’s an add-on option that can be used with loans like FHA, VA, USDA, or Conventional. It usually offers perks like lower interest rates or reduced mortgage insurance, but it’s not its own standalone loan.

I’m 100% open to exploring these if it makes sense for your situation — I just want you to understand the fine print before we go chasing “free money” that comes with strings attached.